Home Theater Assembly Experience - White Starter Edition

Let’s start with some context. The home theater renovation described in this post happened back in 2015. As someone dealing with a chronic illness, it took me two years to finally get around to sorting this out. Back then, I was still relatively new to the idea of building my own home theater. Eager to turn my dream into reality, I spent countless hours researching and gathering information on my own. From laying the groundwork with wiring to selecting the right equipment and finally putting everything together, I managed to handle it all independently. Now, I’m finally ready to compile everything I learned into this post, hoping to share my experiences with others. I hope this guide will be useful and help some fellow enthusiasts. As someone who enjoys watching movies, setting up a home theater was truly a game-changer for me. Over the past couple of years, the most satisfying aspect of my renovation has been this setup. Being able to relax on the couch with snacks and tea while enjoying a great projection is such a treat. It’s unfortunate that 4K technology wasn’t as widespread back in 2015. Many people doubted its popularity due to its high resolution and limited content availability. But now, I can confidently say that 4K is worth every penny. The clarity is just incredible! First, let’s talk about the basic components of a home theater and some key wiring principles: 1. Power Amplifier: The power amplifier essentially serves as a bridge between your input and output devices, amplifying both audio and video signals. It’s essential to ensure proper power supply connections. Your input sources can vary from DVD players and high-definition players to standalone audio equipment. The cables have evolved from the classic red, white, and blue wires to modern HDMI cables, which transmit both audio and video simultaneously. Additionally, you can use optical audio cables (for TV audio input) and RCA analog audio cables (for headphone jack audio input), depending on your equipment. For output, you’ll need both video and audio connections. Your video output could be a TV or a projector, while your audio output will be directed to your speakers. 2. 5.1 Speakers: A 5.1 speaker setup consists of five main speakers: a center speaker, left and right front speakers, and left and right surround speakers, along with one subwoofer for bass. Speakers don’t require their own power source. Instead, they rely on speaker cables connected to the power amplifier. For aesthetic reasons, to hide the wires, darker-colored speaker cables are preferable for those further from the amplifier (typically rear speakers and subwoofers). Cables closer to the amplifier can be left exposed. It's important to plan ahead regarding the placement of your surround sound devices. If you’re mounting them, make sure the speaker wires are run through the mounting positions. Alternatively, if you're opting for floor-standing stands, you can thread the speaker wires through the stands to keep them hidden. I made a rookie mistake here. Initially, I assumed I’d hang the speakers, so I ran the wires through the walls. Later, when I decided not to hang them (to avoid drilling), I ended up using stands, which resulted in more visible speaker wires. 3. Projector: When installing a projector, it’s crucial to reserve ports for high-definition connections and power outlets. To achieve optimal performance, careful planning is required for the projector's installation location: - X-axis Position: Align the projector with the midpoint of the sofa. - Y-axis Position: Adjust based on the "projection lens height H" and the screen dimensions. Projection Lens Height H = Height along the projection screen (1) + Vertical offset (2) + Vertical lens shift range (3) (1) Height along the projection screen: Calculate the screen height using the data from 'a' and 'b'. a. Centerline height of the screen: Ideally, when watching a movie, viewers should look straight at the screen's centerline or slightly downward. The average eye level of someone seated on a sofa is about 110 cm, but this can vary depending on the specific setup. This data is vital for determining the final H value. It’s recommended to consider this during the pre-renovation design phase. b. Screen size: The size of the projection depends on the projector's specifications and the projection distance. Larger screens are generally preferred, but don't overdo it—being too close can cause dizziness. Calculation method: Length = Diagonal X 0.8716, Height = Diagonal X 0.4903 Example: For a 100-inch screen: Length = 100 X 0.8716 = 87.16 inches = 87.16 X 2.54 = 221.39 cm Height = 100 X 0.4903 = 49.03 inches = 49.03 X 2.54 = 124.54 cm (2) Vertical offset: The difference in height between the lens center and the projection screen during installation varies by model. Download the manual online to check specific values. (3) Vertical lens shift range: Some models allow fine-tuning vertically to position the lens slightly higher or lower than the screen’s highest point. Refer to the manual for specifics. Here are the respective data for Epson 5200 and BenQi700: Epson5200 [Image of Epson 5200 data] BenQi700 [Image of BenQi700 data] 4. Curtains: (1) Power supply is essential for electric curtains. Without it, they’d be a major eyesore, as I learned the hard way! [Image of annoying power cord] (2) Consider the curtain’s droop and ensure your TV is mounted properly and your TV cabinet is low enough to allow the curtain to open freely. [Image of curtain development] Positioning the curtain: Ideally, the centerline of the projection curtain should be around 110 cm high. However, due to my TV cabinet being 50 cm high, the projection centerline had to be adjusted to approximately 127 cm, causing the projector to look upward. [Image of simple curtain sketch] Second, let’s discuss my assembly results: 1. Wiring: (TV background wall wiring) [Image of TV background wall wiring] Under the TV background wall, leave ports for the HD line (black), speaker line ports (transparent stack), and a 50mm PVC pipe (upper and lower holes). About the HD line: Many recommend leaving two HD lines for redundancy, but I opted for cost-saving measures. I purchased one from Akihabara and another from Yamazawa’s engineering-grade option, which was half the price of Akihabara. Now I deeply regret not splurging, as these hidden projects can’t be undone easily. Video transmission is the most critical aspect. Ah, saving 100 yuan might not seem much, but it’s better to invest wisely. [Images of Akihabara and Yamazawa cables] About speaker lines: Two are necessary—one for the left and one for the right. I initially bought Akihabara cables but ended up transferring them elsewhere. [Image of speaker cable] [Image of Akihabara speaker cable] PVC pipes: Reserve them in advance to connect all cables running from the wall-mounted TV, including the power line. This avoids exposing wires. Remember to leave a power outlet at the top when installing electric curtains! (Sofa wall wiring) [Image of sofa wall wiring] Leave HD line ports and power outlets on the sofa wall. The middle section should include surround speaker cable ports, left and right. 2. Installation and Placement: (Projector and Surround Sound) [Image of projector and surround sound] a. Ignore the unsightly exposed speaker wires caused by my initial lack of planning. b. The projector bracket is from Taobao, priced at 299 yuan. c. The speaker brackets from Taobao are simple to assemble. (Front Speakers, Amplifiers, and Curtains) [Image of front speakers, amplifiers, and curtains] a. Ideally, the left and right speakers should be aligned with the listener's ear level, but placing them on the TV cabinet would obstruct the projection. So, they had to be bent toward the ground. b. During curtain installation, I found a professional installer for 400 yuan. c. Third reminder: Remember the power for the curtains—lesson learned the hard way! 3. Connections: Focus on the power amplifier [Image of focus on power amplifier] Connect various inputs and outputs [Image of schematic] This assembly is straightforward [Image of setup] Tip: My amplifier has only one HDMI output, so switching between TV and projection requires plugging in two HDMI cables. This is both inconvenient and risky for the HDMI port. Later, I discovered an HDMI splitter, which solved this issue. One HDMI output splits into two outputs—one for the TV and one for the projector. Both devices can operate simultaneously without needing to rearrange cables behind the TV cabinet. [Image of HDMI splitter] Yellow little guy [Image of HDMI splitter] Green Union (UGREEN) HDMI Splitter 1x2 2K*4K Digital High Definition Video Splitter Switch for Computers, TVs, and Projectors, 199 yuan, available on Jingdong. Equipment Purchase: 1. Power Amplifier - Harman Kardon AVR151 2. Speaker Combo - Harman/Kardon HKTS 30 BQ Speakers are expensive, and the market is complex. I didn’t delve too deep into it at the time, purchasing a combo based on appearance. The total cost of the amplifier and speakers was 6700 yuan, though I’ve noticed a recent drop of 500 yuan. 3. Projector - BenQ i700, 5999 yuan When purchasing the projector, I referred to many articles on Smzdm, compared parameters, and hesitated before finally ordering from Amazon at a discounted price of 5999 yuan. It also came with three pairs of 3D glasses, though I rarely use them. Wikipedia [Image of BenQ i700] BenQ i700 Blu-ray 3D Smart Wireless 1080P Home Projector W1070 + Wireless Smart Upgrade Version, 75 comments, 2 original, 5 good price, 31 to buy, View Details 4. Curtains - Ying Hui HD01 Electric Cable Curtain, 2100 yuan Initially, I didn’t budget so high for the curtains. I even considered direct wall investment, which is cheaper and effective. However, I couldn’t overlook the daily dizziness caused by such a large projection. I had to install curtains, and the installer recommended pulling them for optimal viewing. I ultimately decided to purchase the curtains on Taobao for 2100 yuan. Experience and Surroundings: 1. On the size of the projection: My living room is quite narrow. Initially, I believed the larger the projection, the better. I chose a 120-inch curtain, and the projection worked fine. However, after testing, I realized the smaller projection area was better. Living room width: 3760mm, projection distance: about 3360mm, for reference. 2. On input devices: I use the Haier TV box. I’ve tried several versions, and I’m generally satisfied. The main issue is that it slows down over time. As a result, I need to update it frequently. Regardless of the system or software, I recommend avoiding frequent updates. 3. Local audio and video resources: I use Thunder Download plugin with a portable hard drive. Thunder Download Treasure is indeed a lifesaver—cheap, compact, and user-friendly. Recommended features: Advantage 1: Supports multiple protocols, seamlessly connecting all wireless devices in the home, including phones, iPads, computers, and TV boxes. Advantage 2: Remote downloading via mobile clients allows starting downloads from anywhere. Advantage 3: Mobile clients can automatically back up photos and videos from the phone, making it convenient and fast. Conclusion: Finally, an entry-level home theater assembly experience is complete. Please forgive my poor writing. [Image of conclusion] Finally, I wish all movie lovers can immerse themselves in the world of films, regardless of their joys and sorrows.

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